North Macedonia v England
UEFA Euro 2024 Qualifier,
Group C
National Arena Todor Proeski
Skopje, North Macedonia
20 Nov 23
The official programme was not available outside of the stadium it was exclusive to the VIP and press areas. This is England's sixth meeting with North Macedonia and third to be played in Skopje and to be fair, despite the 7:0 thrashing at Old Trafford we have not always had it our own way
The Record:
England 2 Macedonia 2 (Wembley, 16 Oct 02) ECQ 04
Macedonia 1 England 2 (Gradski Park, 6 Sep 03) ECQ 04
Macedonia 0 England 1 (Gradski Park, 6 Sep 06) ECQ 08
England 0 Macedonia 0 (Old Trafford, 7 Oct 06) ECQ 08
England 7 N Macedonia 0 (Old Trafford, 19 Jun 23) ECQ 24
N Macedonia 1 England 1 (Tose Proeski, 20 Nov 23) ECQ 24
P6 W3 D3 L0
Tickets were again in short supply with a final allocation of 2332 after 6782 members registered their interest. Following the ballot all members on 30+ were guaranteed a ticket, with 38 in the bag I was nailed on and Sue squeezed in with 34
The machine that is Jude Bellingham fully deserves his place on the front cover of edition 184 following his goals and assists for club and country
In 2018 the 33, 000 capacity National Arena of Macedonia, Arena Todor Proeski was named after the Macedonian pop icon Todor "Tose" Proeski who died in a car crash in Croatia in 2007. The stadium was initially called the City Park Stadium/Stadion Gradski when England last played here, then renamed Phillip II National stadium from 2009-17.
Entrance to the England end in the North East Stand
England's top boy makes it into the stadium despite the chaotic checks and pushing.
England's finest
North Macedonia 1 England 1
Attendance: 27,982
Day 1 - A sub optimal experience on our 0720 WizzAir flight from Luton to Skopje. The Engineers tried to replace a handset and ended up buggering the door. On the bus off the bus for our new 1140 flight to a very rainy Skopje
Arriving at our digs in the loft above the Dude coffee house in downtown Skopje
The host Mirca has cheered us with a bottle of Macedonian Red and some Figs in syrup
On the first night we discover the Brooklynski Jazz bar
Day 2 - Good Morning Skopje
Day 2 - Discover Skopje
Out early shopping for some groceries
Next up the bakers for some Filo Pastry pies with cheese
Our breakfast view from the AirBnB
Heading onto the centre on a brisk sunny morning
One of four lions guarding the bridge to the heart of Skopje
Passing by Skopje Fortress (Kale)
Video of Macedonia Square
Warrior on a Horse - the controversial giant bronze statue of Alexander the Great was erected in 2011. At the height of tension between Greece and Macedonia who were locked in a dispute over the heritage of ancient Macedonia for decades
On one side of the square is the monument to Tsar Samuil. Tsar Samuil 997 - 1014 AD ruled the first Bulgarian empire from his capital in Ohrid
Stone Bridge leading to the Old Bazaar
The Archaeological Museum of Macedonia and the Bridge of Civilisations spanning the Vardar River
'Warrior' Phillip II of Macedonia, the father of Alexander the Great dominates the square of the same name. It was erected in 2012 and added fuel to the fire over the debate over ancient Macedonia with the Greeks. It all came to a head in 2018 when Macedonia and Greece signed the Prespa agreement, Macedonia agreeing to change their name to North Macedonia and the Greeks removing their veto blocking Macedonia's membership of NATO
Entering the Old Bazaar
It is lunchtime and now time to sample the delights of local sausage (Sudzuk), beans in a clay pot (Pasul ne tave) and meatball things (Cevcapi)
No beer in this tee total kebabery, Sue opts for the local favourite drink 'Strumka' which is a pear soda. Very nice
5 star dining
The Old Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest marketplaces in the Balkans and has been the centre of commerce in Skopje since the 12th Century
Prayer Time baby
Located in front of the Old Turkish Baths the Murat Pasa Mosque is quite pleasing on the eye
The Old Turkish Baths are now used for exhibitions. Here we stumbled across the artists setting up an exhibition entitled 'Debates in Europe' The topic for this one was Kosovo.
After all the mornings excitement I forgot to book my away ticket for Orient v Derby. We raced to the nearest hotel to get Wi-Fi but sadly I had left it too late and they were all sold out
The Skanderbeg monument commemorates Skanderbeg the national hero of Albania who resisted the Ottomans. This monument was commissioned in 1968 on the 500th anniversary of his death
On the Skanderbeg square is another Albanian monument showing the commander Gjergi Kastrioti who won 25 battles against the Ottomans despite being vastly outnumbered. This place is where the ethnic Albanians got to party
There are several party galleons on the River Vardar but sadly most are in disrepair but not this one
Thankfully the Hotel Senigallia is still thriving as a bar, restaurant and hotel
Its a Cat's life in Skopje
Tree Hugger evicted from bar for non reservation of seat
Party time with Alexander the boss of the Brooklynski
Indie rock band with Sasha Leles on vocals
Day 3 - The fortress and the Ukrainians
'Unity' hooligan graffiti
Back in Macedonia square to marvel at the many statues, this is Metodija Andonov-Chento the 1st President of Macedonia
The Macedonians are obsessed with
book shops and books (Книги)
Walking around the back of the Opera and Ballet theatre
The Turkish baths and the Old Bazaar
Lunch in the Austrian Palace
Stadium at sunset
The Millennium Cross from the Fortress
The Byzantine fortress known as Skopje Kale Fortress dates back to the 6th century and sits on the highest point overlooking the Vardar River. With most of the city, it was partially destroyed in the earthquake of 1963
Stadium at sunset
Crazy Orange skies illuminate the Millennium Cross
Monument to Strength, Glory and Victory
The 15th century Mustafa Pasha Mosque
The highest point of the Fortress
Looking down on the Austrian Palace
and the amazing views of the Stadium
Back in the Bazaar Sue spots a Maghull flag with EFC, Marine FC and IFC Koln on it. An odd combination!
'The Diver' (Пливач)
A little while later we bump into Lee and Tim in the Cuban Bar
Skopsko is flowing until they run out of beer and start topping the beer up with the dregs
Our Ukrainian Girls in Skopje
Sue taking the girls under her wing after some very strange behaviour by some Leicester OAPs
Now we're partying
Day 4 - Matchday starts at the Macedonian and England team bus outside the Marriot. An enthusiastic crowd had assembled in front of the hotel and one supporter asked if Phil Foden was in the hotel and if he was coming out. I said, "Yes of cause", the young local lad was so pleased he shouted "I Love you and I love Phil Foden". Oh the guilt!
Just before we start our riverside walk to the stadium along the Vardar we spot another pointless statue. This is Justinian 1 who was the Byzantine Roman Emperor from 527-565 born in modern day North Macedonia (Tauresium, Dardania)
Monument to the Liberators of Skopje was erected in Nov 44 and sits proudly in front of the Government building
Passing the entrance to the North Stand
The whole population is out cleaning and sweeping up ahead of the big game tonight
Arena Todor Proeski taken from the park
After being evicted for trying to gain access via the TV broadcasters entrance we settle for a selfie
Another angle of the curvy construction
On our return to Macedonia square we spot the 'Tree Man" depicting nature and man entwined into one. Next up we flag a taxi to take us to the Matka Canyon
The St Andrew damn marks the end of the Treska River and the start of Lake Matka in the Matka Canyon. It was constructed in 1938 and is no higher than 30m so that if waters rise it will not flood the monastery
Damn! Now that's a good selfie
St Andrew's Monastery founded in 1389
After missing the last boat to the caves the vender put us in his fast boat and zooms us out to RV with the boat we missed.
The Matka Canyon and Lake matka are located about 17 km west of Skopje and covers about 5000 hectares
Heading to the caves
Vrelo Cave consists of two caverns, one is 230m underwater (Podvrelo) and the above water cave which we explored
There are two lakes in the Vrelo cave
Sue has found the second one
Heading back to the Canyon Matka Hotel and Restaurant and the Monastery of St Andrew
Anyone for a 1500g Carp ?
Back to Skopje for a pre match beer in the Crash Bar
Beer is available enroute to the stadium
After numerous security checks we can see the entrance to the North East Stand
England's top boy squeezes through the crush to bag his cap
Entering Block 10
Seats right next to the TV gantry
The South Stand just behind the River Vardar
The Macedonian Anthem - Denes nad Makedonija
(Today over Macedonia)
View of the West Stand closest to the city of Skopje
Pano taking in the South, West and North stands
Rashford freekick into the wall
This is how the Macedonians do Half Time
Celebrating the disallowed Jack Grealish goal
Pickford saves on 41mins but Bardhi nets the rebound
More Stewards than you can shake a shitty stick at
As North Macedonia inch closer to the final whistle thousands of mobile phones light up the stadium
It finishes 1:1 in Skopje. A frustrating night for England as the Slovakian referee seemed to blow the whistle for absolutely anything which totally disrupted the pattern of play. Midway through the 1st half Harry Maguire was fortunate not to concede a penalty but the penalty England did concede was very harsh on when debutant Rico Lewis caught Miovski during a dual for a header and the Aberdeen player went down like he had been shot. Straight after the break England had a goal ruled out for off-side when Jack Grealish turned in Bukayo Saka's cross. The equaliser came on the hour with substitute Harry Kane's first attempt on target when he forced Atanasov into deflecting Foden's corner
Being held back on a cold night in Skopje
Robo Cops in Block 10
Day 5 - The Millennium Cross
The Millennium Cross is a 66 meter cross located on top of the Vodno Mountain, the views are great but don't visit on Monday because its closed.
England's Top Boy modelling this slim fit Rab thermal lightweight jacket
Sue and the Mountain Cat
The cross was built in 2002 and is one of the tallest crosses in the world and was constructed to serve as a memorial to 2000 years Christianity in Macedonia
There are loads of hiking trails you can take on Mt Vudno but sadly not for us today
The Memorial House of Mother Theresa is in her hometown of Skopje where she lived from 1910-28. In those day Skopje was known as Uskup, part of the Ottoman Empire
She was born as Agnes Gonxha Bojaxhiu and her family were of Albanian descent
Mother Theresa became a nun at 18 and lived and worked in India for 17 years. She died in in Calcutta aged 87 after a lifetime of devotion helping the very poorest of the poor in the slums of Calcutta
On the way back from seeing Mother Theresa we meet Papa Smurf (AKA Phil Belch Leeds)
The Diver
The Arch of Macedonia is dedicated to 20 years of Macedonian independence
The Orthodox Church of St Clement of Ohrid is the largest cathedral in Macedonia and well worth a visit
The paintings are really vivid and detailed
Back to the site of England's 1:1 draw with North Macedonia
Killing time and staying warm in the Destan restaurant opposite the stadium. It's here I find a variation of Zlaten DAB (the dark version) and very nice it was
Sue has picked up a stray
Day 6 - Flying home from Skopje to Stansted. The same taxi driver that greeted us is taking us back. The legendary Macedonian Jazz artist John L Apelgren
It is really sad to leave Skopje, we had some amazing days and nights in the Macedonian capital, "Zbogum Macedonia"
