3 Oct 26
UEFA Nations League Group A3
Croatia v England
Stadion Rujevica
Rijeka, Croatia
England's third Nations League Group game in Rijeka was played behind closed doors (BCD) because of racist chanting by their fans in Croatia's Nations League QF against France in 2025. This was the second BCD game for a fixture involving Croatia v England in Rijeka. On 12 Oct 18 the Nations League Group game was also played behind closed doors after a swastika appeared on the pitch prior to a Euro 16 qualifier against Italy. Croatia has always had a prominent right wing/nationalist element linking back to the 'Ustasha' which was a movement formed in 1929 to promote an independent state. It was backed by the Nazis and Mussolini's Facists
Although the match was officially BCD about 6,200 under 14 local kids and the top 100 England fans managed to get access. The cut off for the top 100 was based on 'all time caps'. The bar for this was extremely high with 314 being the lowest. With a meagre 226 I was way off the mark. This ticket belongs to QPR Steve, one of the '100'
Stadion Rujevica is officially known as Stadion HNK Rijeka and is being used by the club during the re-construction of the new 'Stadion Kantrida'. It has a capacity of 8,279 and has an almost unimpeded view from the hill above the North stand
Sadly, this was as close as I got during the game as the Police were here in numbers, guarding all paths to the hill and being generally unpleasant
You can just make out the West Stand
This banner was displayed by some of the local kids before the game 😆
View from the West Stand to the North below the hill
The game ends in disaster for Croatia as they are obliterated 7:0 in what is their largest ever defeat and a national catastrophe
The victorious England team
Day 1: After arriving into Zagreb the day before from Prague and meeting up with Sue at the airport, we drove to 'Hotel Park 45' smack bang in the centre of Zagreb
Our trusty steed
A morning stroll around Zagreb, posing by the funicular
Some Croatian merch
We took the toll roads to Rijeka (A6/E65) arriving at Stadion Rujevica at lunchtime
West Stand (Zapad Tribina) contains the VIP area and has a capacity of 2775. This is the stand where the England '100' will be located
The East Stand (Istocna Tribina) is opposite the main stand and has a capacity of 2852
Quite a nice view but matchday would prove otherwise
The Docker Pub is the home pub of HNK Rijeka and where we will be watching the match with a healthy mix of English and Croats
Posing by Ulaz Jug (South Gate)
Next stop is our digs on the coast in the E of Rijeka
After checking in, we walked to 'Pajol' our local public 'pecine' beach. 'Pecine' means 'Cave' and there are six cave beaches in the district but these days you can't really swim into the caves as they have been concreted in and blocked off for safety reasons when the big villas were built
We then strolled for 10 minutes to a gem of a Fish Taverna called the 'Borik Tavern'
Day 2: Morning swim at the Cave Beach
The view stretching west towards Rijeka
Roger Moor looking for Raquel Welch
Found her!💘
Time to chillax at the Pajol Bar
Proper Coffee
Now for some breakfast and then a tour of Rijeka
The City Clock Tower dominates central Korzo
The Leaning Tower of Rijeka
Saint Vitus' Cathedral
Next to the cathedral is the 330m long tunnel which was built by the Italian Army during WWII to protect the population from allied bombers between 1944-45
Rijeka Stairs
The Roman Arch is a gateway to the former military HQ of Tarsatica, an ancient town on whose ruins Rijeka rose
The HNK Rijeka Fan Shop
A picked up a pin badge and a magnet
Old Rijeka
Monument of Liberation (Spomenik)
The Petar Kruzic Stairway which consists of 561 steps leading to the Church and Trsat Castle
In 1531 Croatian warlord 'Petar Kruzic' built the Trsat Steps as a path for pilgrims
After a gruelling climb we reach the Church of Our Lady of Trsat. My knees are in agony!
We find the nearest pub
We stop for a few in the Monte Cristo and I find out that I have been lucky in the Ballot for the Ashes 😁(Utilita Bowl)
To the castle
Aperol Sprits at the Trsat Castle
Time to shine 🌞
From the Adriatic with love💗
The view from Trsat Castle is amazing
The mythical basilisk, with the head of a rooster, the body of a dragon and tail of a snake. The beast is known as the 'Trsat dragon' and protected the city from the giant octopus that lived in the dark depths of Kvarner Bay.
Legend has it that the Mayor's young daughter was drawing a picture by the beach when she was grabbed by the giant octopus. In the blink of an eye the dragon reached the shore and fought with the octopus, eventually throwing it to the town of Grobnik, where it ended up on the fish market. After the fight the dragon left because it had become too attached to humans. The mayor however, wanted to honour the memory of the dragon and created two bronze Trsat dragons to watch over the city, and they do that to this day
Dinner time at 'Trsatika', just below the castle
We both opt for Buffalo Mozzarella with pasta & pesto 👌
Sunset over Croatia's third city
Day 3: Is matchday but we start with a tour of the public beaches, starting at 'Villa Olga', the former HQ of the German Army in Fiume (now Rijeka). Note the swastika.
Our first beach tick is 'Sablicevo Beach'
Underneath the arches
Sexy Sue in the Adriatic
Fat Steve
Chilling at the Kamov Beach Bar
Villa Olga - German Army HQ 1943-45
The coastal front by Villa Olga
Glavanovo Beach
This is the beach that is recommended for families although the descent to get to it is quite an arduous trek
Beautiful🌞
The build up to the game is gathering steam
Pre-match drink in Cafe Bar Skradin
This is a family run, local neighbourhood bar in Rijeka which has been in the Zamet area since 1964
After a few beers we head to the Docker Pub
